History Of The Picon Punch
If you have not heard of this it’s not surprising. It’s mostly made in the western side of the United States and is popular in parts of California and Nevada with large Basque immigrant populations. If you go to Basque areas in northern Spain they will have no idea what this is. Most of the histories I have found on this credit its creation to the Noriega Hotel in Bakersfield California. Although I think that was more just a cool story used by the hotel and I don’t think that’s the case. The earliest printed reference I can find of the Picon Punch is from the 1900 book “Cocktail Boothby’s American Bartender” by William Boothby of San Francisco, California. Its the first recipe listed in “miscellaneous and unclassified drinks” and is simply called an Amer Picon. The drink is labeled as already being a popular beverage in France, and that makes a lot more sense to me than it being invented in Bakersfield California during the end of the 19th century. The part I personally find most difficult to imagine was that a small hotel in Bakersfield was using grenadine before 1900.
The most popular red fruit syrup in the US prior to 1900 was raspberry syrup. William Boothby was actually the first American bartender to print recipes using grenadine. Grenadine first started being used in France and England around 1890, and in fact in his 1891 edition of the book, the Amer Picon cocktail does not use grenadine but orgeat instead. The change from orgeat to grenadine makes sense too with grenadines explosive popularity in France during that decade. Check out my grenadine article for its history and use in cocktails.
The hotel was founded in 1893 so that would have given them plenty of time to use Amer Picon before it stopped being imported to the US in 1920, but I don’t buy that it was invented there. The use of grenadine, and references to its recipe many years before its origin story says it was invented point to it being traditionally a French cocktail.
What Does The Picon Punch Taste Like
I will say making the change to using grenadine instead of orgeat was the right choice. The drink is still good but the later grenadine version is noticeably better. While the grenadine version is kinda like an herbal pomegranate flavored soda, this one has a nutty flavor that doesn’t balance the herbal flavors as well as the fruity grenadine does. If the nuttier flavor sounds better to you though, then try this one. Keep in mind this is just one persons opinion.
Amer Picon is still not imported into the US so this is made now with substitutes. Also too Amer Picon isn’t made the same today as it was during the turn of the century. The alcohol content is different and so is the flavor. It use to be around 40% abv and today its 18% and the flavor has been updated for modern palates, so basically its a completely different ingredient other than the name. You’ll never be able to completely recreate this drink in its original for so just find a bittersweet/orange-y aperitif you like. Even if you get an actual bottle of Amer Picon from France, it won’t taste like old Amer Picon anyway.
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